hey. I just bought a netgear wgr614 wireless router and 2 gigabyte GN-WPKG wireless lan pci cards. The problem is i cant well...dont know how to set it up. I currently have optus cable internet conecting to my pc using usb...the router tells me to plug everything in by ethernet. My cable modem isnt set up for ethernet though. Can you help me with this problem?
Wireless Router
- Thread starter Nizmo
- Start date
Ethernet is the name of the technology used in (most) cable connected lans.
Is the modem usb only, no lan(ethernet) port?
Do you have a regular lan card ?
Most netgear routers come with wifi off by default, so you will need a lan card and a lan cable to connect and set it up.
You should have gotten a lan cable with the router(atleast we do here)
There is one wan port and 4 lans in the router.
Connect the modem lan port to the router wan port. And one of the router lan ports to your pcs lan port. Then configure your router and your wifi connection.
Is the modem usb only, no lan(ethernet) port?
Do you have a regular lan card ?
Most netgear routers come with wifi off by default, so you will need a lan card and a lan cable to connect and set it up.
You should have gotten a lan cable with the router(atleast we do here)
There is one wan port and 4 lans in the router.
Connect the modem lan port to the router wan port. And one of the router lan ports to your pcs lan port. Then configure your router and your wifi connection.
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When starting out on wireless security, always have the means to make a wired connection, or at least to do a settings reset on the router, in case you lock yourself out of wireless.
NAME the router, so you can be certain it is your router that you are connecting to, and not another unsecure one of the same make and model. Use a name which does not obviously relate to you or your location. You should also set/change the router admin password.
Use WEP, with 128 bit key, 256 bit if all components support it.
This is generally set up by typing a WEP key "passphrase" into the router, which converts into several hexadecimal keys that you will need to use (one of) on the the client systems - using the standard WinXP method, you will be prompted for the key if you try to connect to a secure network and have not already set it.
WEP is a start, but concerted attack can break WEP keys.
Second line defence, is setting the router to only accept the wireless MAC addresses that are known to you - this should be a section, where the currently connected id's are shown - remember that this restriction must be released at any time you wish to add a new system or adapter, and then re-engaged after checking in the new adapter address.
TAKE CARE - it is not a good idea to apply this to wired connections, unless there is a real possibility of unauthorised users actually plugging in to the router. Many routers will offer this as a feature for wired and/or wireless, but to do both increases the chance that you will have to scrap all settings with a reset, if you mess up.
Disable SSID broadcast - use this option with care, as while it hides the router from casual scanning, it seems to result in a lot of cases of non-connection.
(bitter experience, now you know why I consider an alternative wired access to be essential).
NAME the router, so you can be certain it is your router that you are connecting to, and not another unsecure one of the same make and model. Use a name which does not obviously relate to you or your location. You should also set/change the router admin password.
Use WEP, with 128 bit key, 256 bit if all components support it.
This is generally set up by typing a WEP key "passphrase" into the router, which converts into several hexadecimal keys that you will need to use (one of) on the the client systems - using the standard WinXP method, you will be prompted for the key if you try to connect to a secure network and have not already set it.
WEP is a start, but concerted attack can break WEP keys.
Second line defence, is setting the router to only accept the wireless MAC addresses that are known to you - this should be a section, where the currently connected id's are shown - remember that this restriction must be released at any time you wish to add a new system or adapter, and then re-engaged after checking in the new adapter address.
TAKE CARE - it is not a good idea to apply this to wired connections, unless there is a real possibility of unauthorised users actually plugging in to the router. Many routers will offer this as a feature for wired and/or wireless, but to do both increases the chance that you will have to scrap all settings with a reset, if you mess up.
Disable SSID broadcast - use this option with care, as while it hides the router from casual scanning, it seems to result in a lot of cases of non-connection.
(bitter experience, now you know why I consider an alternative wired access to be essential).
Another thing, channel planning when there are other systems around...
I don't know about 802.11a (on a higher band), but 802.11b/g share their 2.4GHz band with Video senders, microwave ovens and some types of cordless phone. The signal is also a lot wider than the channel. The 1-11 channel space of 802.11b/g is generally parallel to the A-D channel settings on typical Video senders. Wifi can share with Wifi, with loss of throughput, but a continuous signal device like a video sender completely wipes out the channel.
Channnel 9, +/- is upset badly by microwave ovens.
The standard 1-11 usage is 1, 7, 11 - if all are used, try channel 4, but it's not entirely clear of 1 and 7.
Seperating by 1 is insignificant, 2 is a bit better, 3 gives a worthwhile reduction in mutual interference, and 4 is ideal.
some countries have a wider allocation, of 1-13, 1-14, while others may be less than 1-11, though in many cases, you may find that one piece of kit ends up limiting you to 1-11 even if the others can go wider
I don't know about 802.11a (on a higher band), but 802.11b/g share their 2.4GHz band with Video senders, microwave ovens and some types of cordless phone. The signal is also a lot wider than the channel. The 1-11 channel space of 802.11b/g is generally parallel to the A-D channel settings on typical Video senders. Wifi can share with Wifi, with loss of throughput, but a continuous signal device like a video sender completely wipes out the channel.
Channnel 9, +/- is upset badly by microwave ovens.
The standard 1-11 usage is 1, 7, 11 - if all are used, try channel 4, but it's not entirely clear of 1 and 7.
Seperating by 1 is insignificant, 2 is a bit better, 3 gives a worthwhile reduction in mutual interference, and 4 is ideal.
some countries have a wider allocation, of 1-13, 1-14, while others may be less than 1-11, though in many cases, you may find that one piece of kit ends up limiting you to 1-11 even if the others can go wider
I still dont know how to put on a wep key or anything. I cant find the router on the comptuer. When i play games on the internet now they are heaps laggyer. This started about 3 days after using the wireless internet. My ping used to be around 300-500 on this game and it now sits at around 1000's. Does this mean someone else in my street is using my internet and slowing me down?
http://kbserver.netgear.com/kb_web_files/N101379.asp Manuals and online info from Netgear.
If you do not have wireless security, then it is quite poosible that your connection is being abused - there should be a page in the router setup that shows the active connections.
The other thing, do you have good signal and speed - the tray icon normally indicates the current signal level and speed. Reliability may be improved by limiting the speed on the router, as unless you are connecting multiple PCs to transfer between each other, the wireless connection doues not really need to be any faster than the broadband.
If you do not have wireless security, then it is quite poosible that your connection is being abused - there should be a page in the router setup that shows the active connections.
The other thing, do you have good signal and speed - the tray icon normally indicates the current signal level and speed. Reliability may be improved by limiting the speed on the router, as unless you are connecting multiple PCs to transfer between each other, the wireless connection doues not really need to be any faster than the broadband.
Thats how it should be.
I see from another thread, you have some spyware trouble. This could cause deteriorating network performance.
If you dont have one i would strongly suggest a software firewall.
Have you checked the need for port forwarding.
Some games needs specific ports open.
Turn off unpn and instead configure the router appropriately.
Also is the respond to ping on internet port checked, you might need it on.
In my experience(with netgear) you will(from time to time) experience deteriorating network performance and then have to reapply the configuration and or manually force a release/renew(ip config).
Have you configured any security yet?
Both network interface/connection and the router needs configuring for encryption to work.
I usually run Netstumbler after a setup. Gives an "outside" view of your setup
I see from another thread, you have some spyware trouble. This could cause deteriorating network performance.
If you dont have one i would strongly suggest a software firewall.
Have you checked the need for port forwarding.
Some games needs specific ports open.
Turn off unpn and instead configure the router appropriately.
Also is the respond to ping on internet port checked, you might need it on.
In my experience(with netgear) you will(from time to time) experience deteriorating network performance and then have to reapply the configuration and or manually force a release/renew(ip config).
Have you configured any security yet?
Both network interface/connection and the router needs configuring for encryption to work.
I usually run Netstumbler after a setup. Gives an "outside" view of your setup
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