trying to understand whether dye type is an issue

[toyospares]

I'm trying to understand whether dye type is an issue with DVD recordable media or not.

Is there a good guide around? Everything I can find seems to be about CD recordable media. Do the same theories apply to DVD recordable media as CDs?
i.e. Long strategy media uses Cyanine, Azo or Metal Azo dye
Short strategy media uses Phthalocyanine

What is meant by long strategy and short strategy? i.e. is it life expectancy etc.

Elsewhere is is claimed that metal dithiochelates, benzenaminium salts, etc. are normally added to cyanine dyes to increase light stability while phthalocyanine and azo dyes are intrinsically less sensitive to light exposure after recording.

If I understand the paragraph above correctly then doesn't that mean that cyanine is more sensitive to light exposure and would hence have a shorter life expectancy (strategy?) than phthalocyanine and azo which in turn contradicts the second paragraph.

Where does Metal Azo fit into this?

Why do DVDs appear different colors when you look at them?
i.e. ones with the Cyanine dye appear light purple whereas the Azo dye used in the Ritek G04's appears dark purple.
Is it because each manufacturer mixes their own dye so even though two dyes may be Cyanine, they may not appear the same color or shade of color?

Does the material used in the reflective layer affect this?

Does the dye type matter anyway? What about the dye color? i.e. is it darker is better? Is the manufacturers QA more importannt?


Any one care to comment?

Toyo

 

[scaz69]

From what ive been hearing, the Rytek G04 dye is the best on the market. Used a around a hundred and they seem to play on more dvds than any other ive used. Hope this helps a little.

Regards

scaz69.

 

[The-poacher]

Yep all that techno razz about the types of dye & scaz got it DVDR with Ritek G04 dye are the dogs Blx

My pioneer 106 could probably burn to a beermat but it wouldnt play in a standalone.

Ritek G04 die 4x play in just about any standalone & I use em in the pioneer & a Sony 500 & they work for me.

 

[toyospares]

Yeah, I use Databank Gold (rebadged Ritek G04) in my Pioneer 106D and have never had a coaster yet. Data or Video. Videos play fine in my Pioneer DV-355 stand alone DVD player as well. Those that have offered me offsite storage for my DVD backups have said that they play fine in their various model stand alone DVD players as well.

I used Sigma's before that. No problems either. Someone gave me some Pyrod's the other day and have burnt one of them OK as well.

I'm really interested just from the technical perspective.

 

[Mr Snatcher]

Ritek dye is the best around. Dark purple dye is easier on the laser. I have learned th ehard way in the beginning, took the old princos and tranfeered them to riteks, much bettdr response from our dvd players, ps2 and xbox

 

[LTR12101B]

Much of the talk about dyes goes back to CD-R.

My understanding of STRATEGY, as applied to CD-R, is it refers to the time of the T3 pulse (the smallest feature).
Cyanine dyes are strategy LONG, they require a longer T3 pulse as they are not as sensitive to the laser spot edges at the required calibration power.
Phthalocyanine dyes are strategy SHORT, as they are sensitive to the edges.

The differences arise if you were to take a magnified view of the laser spot.
1. It's stronger at the centre, and tails off at the edge.
2. It is also travelling, so the body of the mark receives a greater exposure than the ends.

Just try drawing a line with the spraycan tool in any paint program, and you''ll see how the ends are less dense, Now if you're interested in the darkest part, you have to draw "strategy long", but if you count all of it, you draw "strategy short".

The ATIP code of CD-R normally ends in 0-4 for Cyanine (LONG) and 5-9 for Phthalocyanine (SHORT) - though like everthing, there are probably exceptions - some drives include strategy as a power calibration step, other take it from the ATIP without question.