Which of these CDRs for audio?

Which of these CDRs that I own should I use to record audio w/ my Lite-On 48125W?

Kodak Gold Ultima 74min, speed? (made 1999), gold box, made in Mexico,
CDR Indentifier says Kodak Japan Ltd.
Fuji 80min, 24x, blue package, Japan, CDR ID'r says Taiyo Yuden
Imation 80min, 16x, red package, Taiwan, CDR ID'r says CMC
Valuedisc/Khypermedia (from Office Max) 80min, 32X, green box, Taiwan
PNY 80min, 16x, orange/yellow and white box, Taiwan

I used to hear the Kodaks are good but the last one I burned wouldnt
play in a friend's factory car player.
Also what would be your second choice?
Are any of these plain junk?


Are silver CDRs, usually better than more blue/green CDRs even if the
silvers are generic and the more blue/green are from a more well known
company?
 
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Run the Fujis at less than their rated maximum speed. The TY stands for Taiyo Yuden...I run these Fujis exclusively. Taiyo Yuden manufactures top quality products.

I have a Yamaha CRW3200E, Yamaha CRW-F1, LiteOn 40125S, and LiteOn 52246S. The Fujis perform flawlessly in all of them read and write...not a coaster yet. That also has a lot to do with the software you use, Im running Nero 5.5.9.9 and Alcohol 120 1.4.0.103, these two together are unstoppable.

Steer clear of the CMC disks and the Khypermedia because I believe that they are CMCs also...that is unless you just need a quick cheap burn for temporary purposes. Even then the results are questionable and unpredictable.

To get the complete ATIP information from each disk, use Alcohol to read it...that or use this little app.

http://www.gum.de/it/download/english.htm

It is not being developed anymore, but it does a good job. I run it under XP Pro with no problems. As far as its accuracy...well, I take its word for it because it reports the exact same information as Alcohol.

later...:)
 
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I had the problem with my car Kenwood player not handling CDRs. I found the best that worked in them were silver disks, better than gold, which ususally worked but not always. Blue disks, forget it. Right now I'm using Imation 48x disks, they are silver.
 
mag046 said:
Run the Fujis at less than their rated maximum speed. The TY stands for Taiyo Yuden...I run these Fujis exclusively. Taiyo Yuden manufactures top quality products.

I have a Yamaha CRW3200E, Yamaha CRW-F1, LiteOn 40125S, and LiteOn 52246S. The Fujis perform flawlessly in all of them read and write...not a coaster yet. That also has a lot to do with the software you use, Im running Nero 5.5.9.9 and Alcohol 120 1.4.0.103, these two together are unstoppable.

Steer clear of the CMC disks and the Khypermedia because I believe that they are CMCs also...that is unless you just need a quick cheap burn for temporary purposes. Even then the results are questionable and unpredictable.

To get the complete ATIP information from each disk, use Alcohol to read it...that or use this little app.

http://www.gum.de/it/download/english.htm

It is not being developed anymore, but it does a good job. I run it under XP Pro with no problems. As far as its accuracy...well, I take its word for it because it reports the exact same information as Alcohol.

later...:)
Yes, TY stands for Taiyo Yuden, since I'm the one that abbreviated it. :) CDR Identifier states the full name.
Are the Fuji's true silvers?
As far as your link to CDR Identifier, I originally stated that's where I got my info on them. :)

Where can you find 74min Fuji's?

Is Alcohol better than Clone CD? I haven't tried it yet.
 
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My bad...again

You can buy Fujis at any store here in the states...

I dont use 74 min Fujis...they are all 80s.

Yes, Alcohol is better than Clone (IMO)...
 
Yeah I have the Fujis and see them around, but they're 80min (as are most now it seems), but some CD players have problems w/ 80min CD's. Since the tracks are 'squeezed' more.
 
Sorry to say but any CD player built after 1997 or so should not have any problem with eighty minute CD's- but it could have problems with certain media.
 
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