My CDR does not play in my stereo
- Thread starter dakook
- Start date
Did you master it as an AUDIO CD ?
If you DID set it out as an Audio CD project, was it Disc-At-Once or Track-At-Once.
If you use track at once, you are forced to have track gaps, but can add tracks in several stages - but not play until you finalize.
Finally, most standard CD players will not recognize CD-RW media (unless they have that as an advertised feature), and may be somewhat iffy with CD-R media.
The advice used to be to write at a low speed, even 1x, but current drives and media are just not tuned for those speeds.
With a drive and media rated for 32x or above, I'd suggest no higher than 16x, and no lower than 4x - if drive and media are of lower specification, then I'd definitely favour 4x.
(personally, I just had great success with a very fussy player, using some OLD media at 2x - though this media dates back to when 12x would be considered FAST!) - I've used it with tolerable error levels at speeds up to 12x, but it clearly makes a better burn at 2x - Fornet media - not the best quality).
If you DID set it out as an Audio CD project, was it Disc-At-Once or Track-At-Once.
If you use track at once, you are forced to have track gaps, but can add tracks in several stages - but not play until you finalize.
Finally, most standard CD players will not recognize CD-RW media (unless they have that as an advertised feature), and may be somewhat iffy with CD-R media.
The advice used to be to write at a low speed, even 1x, but current drives and media are just not tuned for those speeds.
With a drive and media rated for 32x or above, I'd suggest no higher than 16x, and no lower than 4x - if drive and media are of lower specification, then I'd definitely favour 4x.
(personally, I just had great success with a very fussy player, using some OLD media at 2x - though this media dates back to when 12x would be considered FAST!) - I've used it with tolerable error levels at speeds up to 12x, but it clearly makes a better burn at 2x - Fornet media - not the best quality).
Not every cd player is able to accurately read cdrs. Somebody else here will offer suggestions about programs and settings that might enhance readability. I can suggest that when I was using an older cd player that didn't read cdrs, I found that it was the pc-written lead-in info that could not be understood by the player.
If I inserted the cdr and advanced to a later track like 2 or 3, it would play fine through the rest of the cdr. Last, if I started from track 2 and then reversed the track playing to track one, it would play the entire cdr. So this is not a full solution, but it might help in a pinch.
If I inserted the cdr and advanced to a later track like 2 or 3, it would play fine through the rest of the cdr. Last, if I started from track 2 and then reversed the track playing to track one, it would play the entire cdr. So this is not a full solution, but it might help in a pinch.
or if you can live with the hassle simply put a regular RETAIL cd in the player play for a second or two then put your cdr in 
other than that either replace the player or get someone that knows what they are doing with electronics and get them to adjust the lazer intensity so it will read cdrs
if they do not know what lazer intensity is or how to adjust it then don't let them even attempt this fix
a good repair shop should be able to help with this
a last thing to try is does the disk work in other players !?
if yes then this could also be a media problem so i suggest try another brand
other than that either replace the player or get someone that knows what they are doing with electronics and get them to adjust the lazer intensity so it will read cdrs
if they do not know what lazer intensity is or how to adjust it then don't let them even attempt this fix
a good repair shop should be able to help with this
a last thing to try is does the disk work in other players !?
if yes then this could also be a media problem so i suggest try another brand
1. Always disk-at-once mode for audio CD's.
2. Always hi-Q highly reflexive media.
3. Always good, proven mastering/burning software.
1.) is self-explicable, 2) stands for Mitsui/ Mitsubishi/ Taiyo Yuden media (you can also try Ritek and Prodisk if you are brave), and 3.) stands for whaat's suggested here as GOOD audio burning program- they aare quite a few, although less than you would suspect.
2. Always hi-Q highly reflexive media.
3. Always good, proven mastering/burning software.
1.) is self-explicable, 2) stands for Mitsui/ Mitsubishi/ Taiyo Yuden media (you can also try Ritek and Prodisk if you are brave), and 3.) stands for whaat's suggested here as GOOD audio burning program- they aare quite a few, although less than you would suspect.
