CDR Media.

A-Traveller

New member
Hi Everyone,

Am wondering if anyone can advise me on the following.

I have a Lite-On LTR 52327S (52x32x52) CD-ReWriter and have my eye on either Ridata Ritek Branded 80 minute 48x CDRs (made in Taiwan) or Taiyo Yuden Unbranded 80 minute 48x CDRs.

Would anyone be kind enough to share their opinions/experience with these media and whether or not they are recommended for my particular drive?

Are green/blue/gold undersides of CDRs any better than just plain no coloured ones?

Thanks very much.
 
Last edited:
I have been burning cdr-rw since god I think my philips was a 2x. I have not found any difference in cd media!!! I buy the cheapest stuff and I have not found any of my back-up not to work when I go to use them. The thing I find to a must for cd burning is a lite-on burn. So buy the cheapest media you can find and you'll be good to go. IMHO :)
 
I haven't used 1 of the brands you mention(never seen them in my area),but my experience with blue coated discs is that they are not so good for music,especially for my car cdplayer....they are less reflective than others,a weak laser has more difficulty to read them...
Just my own experience,of course..
 

dx

1
I've used Taiyo Yuden media (Fuji rebrands) almost exclusively on my last 2 LiteOn CDRW drives. Great media that performs flawlessly in any drive I throw them into... haven't had a single hardware incompatability. :cool:
 
CDR's are now on the whole pretty good & its a matter of preference really go with what works for U & with that burner U can just about burn on a beermat!!!!
 
Most CDR media burn pretty well nowadays, the issue is their durability!
Some of them begin to peel off or getting massive C1 or C2 level errors just a couple of months after burning them.
I believe that the best quality media you can find are Taiyo Yuden and (especially) Mitsui Gold and SG- but you might find others that work better for you.
 
RiData (Ritek house brand) 48x reviewed here
http://www.thedolphinreview.com/RiData48xCD-R/RiData48xCD-RPage1.html

The first example was excellent at 48x, but the second was completely different in addition to the visible spot damage, the whole burn was considerably worse.
#3 and #4 returned to the same standard as #1.

Performed well down through the range, with a higher but still good C1 rate at 12x, then held up well down to 8x and even 4x.


They used to laugh at RITEK, well they're not laughing now - Ritek can pruduce some excellent media - though if you check the BLACK, that shows it's not all rosy.


Mind you, you can't argue with TY if the price is right!
 

A-Traveller

New member
Thanks for all the advice here.

Could anyone recommend at which speed burning onto the Riteks with my LTR 52327S is more likely to produce the best results? I don't mind burning at slow speeds if it means an increase in quality or decrease in errors, etc.

(I don't like the idea of wasting discs trying out different speeds to see which one is best. Besides, even if I did try out a few different speeds, how would I find out which one was best?)
 
With a Liteon drive, use Kprobe or CD Doctor - though both can be hard to find.

Kprobe is apparently a leaked internal Liteon utility, which at one time was on the author's page.

From those tests, it looks like the Liteon drive likes Ridata at ANY speed.

I'll try to rake out a good source for CD Doctor, as it seems to be a less "dodgy" one, and it's a lot easier to follow.
http://www2.tcnet.ne.jp/miyuri/files/doctor_120b1.zip

See this thread
http://www.dvdrbase.com/showthread.php?t=33157
The archive contains a passworded archive - though it seems that limited approval has been given for it to be distributed.

- Not sure if it was this one, or Kprobe that requires GDIplus (on Win9x) to be able to save an image?
 
Tayo media is usually good and well priced..i always buy them if possiblle...
But as said above now all media getting better and better and you should be well with either of them;also liteon is supposed to have that media feature that it will burn(use)maximum speed(but safe too).
Just be sure that that selector(cant remember the name of the feature)is enabled :)
 
Smart-Burn?

Liteon's Smart Burn is notorious for wrong guesses, like considering it to be sensible to write CMC media at full speed.

With that test program, I would say write a normal (and preferably FULL LENGTH) burn at the speed you would choose (hey! try 52x on 48x media if the drive lets you), and then verify the C1 error rate.

Averaging <1 is top class, but anything <10 is pretty good - the point to watch is for a sharp rise at the end - that often tells you that you should take the speed down a step or 2
 

genesisreview

New member
They are both good choices

A-Traveller said:
I have a Lite-On LTR 52327S (52x32x52) CD-ReWriter and have my eye on either Ridata Ritek Branded 80 minute 48x CDRs (made in Taiwan) or Taiyo Yuden Unbranded 80 minute 48x CDRs.
I have had excellent results with Maxell 48x CD-R's which are made by Ritek in combination with my LTR 52327S.
Also I have an old Stereo that won't play any other CD-R's other than Taiyo Yden media
If you want to view the C1 and C2 error test results from the Ritek disks they are available at my website where I review different CD-r's.
http://www.genesisreview.741.com/ the link will take you directly to the review on the ritek discs
If you visit the link please visit the homepage and read the important notice, which is located near the top

I have found that the results for the Ritek disks in combination with a ltr-52327s are consistant at speeds between 4x and 52x
 
Last edited:
Some competition for Mr. Dolphin, I see!

If you check his site, you'll find PNG works far better for the graphs than JPEG does ... to get acceptable precision out of JPEG, you have to turn the compression insanely low, and PNG is now reasonably well tolerated - Internet Explorer can't do alpha transparency, but then JPEG doesn't have transparency anyway.

If you want the smallest files, PNGCRUSH can usually shrink them - after testing, I prefer to set the options to try ALL, but lock to max compression - this means you WILL find the smallest possible result, it's STILL lossless, and it's a lot quicker than tryin lower compressions, since the highest will never be worse, even if it doesn't improve - the only penalty of highest compression in PNG is compression time - like using higher than standard for ZIP.

You can also take a 24 bit PNG down to 8 bit indexed, if you don't need the full colour range - and if you DO, to preserve shades, always PNG from a 24/32 bit color depth - 16 bit may have dither, and it makes the PNGCRUSH filters less effective.

If you're not happy with PNG, GIF is an alternative, but PNG is said to do better, even on 8 bit.


Compared to GIF:
1. PNG is not encumbered by a messy patent situation
2. PNG can do truly lossless 24 bit (GIF can't)
3. PNG is also said to compress better at 8 bit, 256 colour indexed

GIF wins on animation, as the MNG animated format is not well supported.
JPG wins on photographic, real life picture, as PNG needs computer generated precision in order to get usable compression ... but PNG would do about as well or badly as any other lossless format on the same material.
 

A-Traveller

New member
Hi All.

I have run some test on three of my TDK's, which look like they are made by Ritek. They are 16x and I have burned each at a different speed. For all three, I get ridiculously bad results compared to the results I have seen on this page:

http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?threadid=76058

Most of the averages here start with a 0.0! The lowest mine has been is 22.747! I also have had at least one C2 error.

What am I doing wrong?

Another thing I want to know, is how do I check if a CDR has any buffers underruns?

I have an LTR-52327S and am currently using Nero. Does the software used make any difference when it comes to errors or is that only a drive/media issue? If it does matter, then which software generally works best with LTR-52327S and Ritek discs?

Thank you.
 
Last edited:
A-Traveller said:
I have run some test on three of my TDK's, which look like they are made by Ritek.
same here, TDK aren't TY anymore;


What am I doing wrong?
try the yellow, orange or black Intenso packages, they are my current favorites;


Another thing I want to know, is how do I check if a CDR has any buffers underruns?
disable buffer underrun protection in Nero's recorder settings, try some simulations first, then burn; if you get buffer underruns, then Nero prompts an error;


Does the software used make any difference when it comes to errors or is that only a drive/media issue?
as long as you don't write in DAO/96 mode, the software shouldn't really matter; latest Nero 5.5 seems to be reliable too;


Greetings from
Duracell
 
Top