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Hi Everyone,
Am wondering if anyone can advise me on the following. I have a Lite-On LTR 52327S (52x32x52) CD-ReWriter and have my eye on either Ridata Ritek Branded 80 minute 48x CDRs (made in Taiwan) or Taiyo Yuden Unbranded 80 minute 48x CDRs. Would anyone be kind enough to share their opinions/experience with these media and whether or not they are recommended for my particular drive? Are green/blue/gold undersides of CDRs any better than just plain no coloured ones? Thanks very much. Last edited by A-Traveller; 22-03-2004 at 05:10. |
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I haven't used 1 of the brands you mention(never seen them in my area),but my experience with blue coated discs is that they are not so good for music,especially for my car cdplayer....they are less reflective than others,a weak laser has more difficulty to read them...
Just my own experience,of course..
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I've used Taiyo Yuden media (Fuji rebrands) almost exclusively on my last 2 LiteOn CDRW drives. Great media that performs flawlessly in any drive I throw them into... haven't had a single hardware incompatability.
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CDR's are now on the whole pretty good & its a matter of preference really go with what works for U & with that burner U can just about burn on a beermat!!!!
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Most CDR media burn pretty well nowadays, the issue is their durability!
Some of them begin to peel off or getting massive C1 or C2 level errors just a couple of months after burning them. I believe that the best quality media you can find are Taiyo Yuden and (especially) Mitsui Gold and SG- but you might find others that work better for you.
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RiData (Ritek house brand) 48x reviewed here
http://www.thedolphinreview.com/RiDa...CD-RPage1.html The first example was excellent at 48x, but the second was completely different in addition to the visible spot damage, the whole burn was considerably worse. #3 and #4 returned to the same standard as #1. Performed well down through the range, with a higher but still good C1 rate at 12x, then held up well down to 8x and even 4x. They used to laugh at RITEK, well they're not laughing now - Ritek can pruduce some excellent media - though if you check the BLACK, that shows it's not all rosy. Mind you, you can't argue with TY if the price is right!
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Thanks for all the advice here.
Could anyone recommend at which speed burning onto the Riteks with my LTR 52327S is more likely to produce the best results? I don't mind burning at slow speeds if it means an increase in quality or decrease in errors, etc. (I don't like the idea of wasting discs trying out different speeds to see which one is best. Besides, even if I did try out a few different speeds, how would I find out which one was best?) |
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With a Liteon drive, use Kprobe or CD Doctor - though both can be hard to find.
Kprobe is apparently a leaked internal Liteon utility, which at one time was on the author's page. From those tests, it looks like the Liteon drive likes Ridata at ANY speed. I'll try to rake out a good source for CD Doctor, as it seems to be a less "dodgy" one, and it's a lot easier to follow. http://www2.tcnet.ne.jp/miyuri/files/doctor_120b1.zip See this thread http://www.dvdrbase.com/showthread.php?t=33157 The archive contains a passworded archive - though it seems that limited approval has been given for it to be distributed. - Not sure if it was this one, or Kprobe that requires GDIplus (on Win9x) to be able to save an image?
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Burn em fast otherwise U might as well have a 12 speed plextor SCSI!!
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They Seek Him Here They Seek Him There They Seek Him Everywhere Catch_Me_If_You_Can MY_Regiment__The_Poachers |
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Quote:
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~Thomas Jefferson |
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Tayo media is usually good and well priced..i always buy them if possiblle...
But as said above now all media getting better and better and you should be well with either of them;also liteon is supposed to have that media feature that it will burn(use)maximum speed(but safe too). Just be sure that that selector(cant remember the name of the feature)is enabled
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Smart-Burn?
Liteon's Smart Burn is notorious for wrong guesses, like considering it to be sensible to write CMC media at full speed. With that test program, I would say write a normal (and preferably FULL LENGTH) burn at the speed you would choose (hey! try 52x on 48x media if the drive lets you), and then verify the C1 error rate. Averaging <1 is top class, but anything <10 is pretty good - the point to watch is for a sharp rise at the end - that often tells you that you should take the speed down a step or 2
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